Une question d'étiquette, an occasional series: No.2

Etiquette, of course, is usually held to describe the subject, process, science or ritual even of correct manners.

It is also the French for a label, so let us act with all due decorum in drawing your attention to this fruity little number; a veritable corker even.

I ought to begin by assuring you that this particular bottle contained a very decent Fitou, as I can, myself, bear witness. So no slur intended on the expertise of its makers; absolutely not.

It is, in fact, a gold medal-winning bottle of Seigneurie d'Arse. Perish those thoughts of drink, feck, gurrlls, Father Jack . . .

To be precise, it's a Seigneurie d'Arse 2004 which gained the Macon medaille d'or in the Concours des Grands Vins de France 2006.

So titter ye not: Good things sometimes come in unexpected packets. Evidemment . . .