Deciding on a day out from Sevilla, we headed for Cordoba, to visit the Mezquita - the finest mosque the Moors ever built in Spain, and fortunately the one that's still standing.
It's intriguing as to why the advancing Catholics didn't go in for mosque-flattening here as elsewhere.
Possibly the extraordinary beauty of the building with its endless double arches and columns was acknowledged.
Probably Cordoba could not have afforded a replacement cathedral on anywhere near the same scale as at Sevilla.
Anyway for three centuries, the Catholics left the building well alone, converting it to a cathedral with the lightest of modifications. Even the most sacred part of the mosque, the prayer niche or mihrab remains intact to this day.
But inevitably they succumbed to temptation: They carved a chunk out of the middle of the Mezquita, and inserted a Renaissance cathedral choir with gigantic high altar. It has to be the most bizarre religious fusion ever. Somehow I (purposely, I think) omitted to photograph it.
Still, we're amazingly lucky that no-one ever smashed this astonishing building. We still have about 85% of the original. They could have flattened the lot.
mardi 1 novembre 2011
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